A1600 for the Amiga 600

Based loosely on my original concept, design, prototype and first run manufacture of the A1500 Expansion system. (marketed then manufactured by Checkmate Digital and A1500 ltd) back in the day.

My aim is to provide files that will print consistently and successfully to avoid the expense of reprinting for anyone that wishes to make this project.

When finalised the STL (and if requested DXF files will be available for FREE download here and other Amiga interest sites.

3D printers are very common and becoming more so (as are the materials that can be used) it makes sense to shop around for someone who will print this for a reasonable price but don’t ask me I am not in this for the commerce or sponsorship.

These models are updated on an ad-hoch basis and not all features (or Amiga connectors) are shown as they were not needed for prototyping (RF modulator, power connector and Phono sockets omitted for clarity).

The free downloadable files below are the first of many to come and are a response to those who have shown an interest in making use of them to start their own designs. I will be constantly modifying and adding designs as suggested by anyone who may request a feature that I think worthy and practicable enough to include. These parts fit together but depending on the slicing and printing may need minimal shaping by whatever techniques you may wish to employ (for which I bear no responsibility or make any claims for the suitability. The ones I printed from these designs are pretty fine even though I do say so myself. Anyway please yourself and get to me on discord if you feel the need for further discussion.

Discord invite links :

Commodore Amiga Corner/3d printing @MickR

https://discord.gg/7HMKap4e

Pistorm/3d printing

https://discord.gg/G3nUUQuw

Mick Roots Copyright 2022

The Base retains the use of the exsisting lower metal shielding to give mechanical security to the rear D type connectors. Two 30mm fan housings give increased airflow over the CPU area where the majority of accelerators (Pistorm16 on this one) and heat producing chips are positioned. adjacent to those are two optional 9 pin D type apetures for gamepads wireless receivers. The existing joy/mouse connectors will fit all known cowlings and connector housings that would not fit the original A600 case so you can use all the adaptors that fit on the 500, 1000, 1200 and 2000.

Printing:

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that the base is printed standing on its side. The laminations must run from Front to Back as the screwless fixing design needs flexing along the laminations not across. I used a Brim and Tree-type supports.

A1600_Assy_1

The Caddy Floppy or Gotek (or other devices with that 3.5″ footprint) face front. Includes some ventillation slots for expansion connector devices

The floppy mounting Caddy is now proved. Although they have been notoriously tricky due to the different drives used by Commodore. This design elegantly resolves those issues.

The Casing Looks familiar because I really liked how my original design of A1500 turned out. I had put a lot of useful features into the design. If you still have an A1500 expansion system knocking about I’d be interested to know what you think of it (the original purpose did get a bit lost on the way). For the story of how (and why) the original A1500 came about check out this Amiga blogger (some editorial license is granted without prejudice to protect the innocent).

https://www.scuzzscink.com/amiga/scuzzblog_december23/scuzzblogddecember23_2501.htm

And…..

https://www.scuzzscink.com/amiga/scuzzblog_december23/scuzzblogddecember23_2601.htm

Cable protection in the form of a rear-overhang is still high on the agenda and tributes to the A1000 include space underneath for a modern wireless keyboard (Below in the Additional Features section). Amikey 600 From sordan.ie works fine although Ctrl A A reboot is mapped to Ctrl Alt Del.

These files will not be for sale and anyone reselling what is given freely will face the utter distain of all those who discover that they were ripped off by such scumbags (no names of such scumbags who have ripped of these or any of my previous designs will be found here) There are many Amiga user groups where these can be discussed.

Being the custodian of a “museum” is no excuse for claiming the design or discovery of the artifacts.

Please be patient as the design is one thing and the slicing specifications are another. I will be taking advice on those aspects @discord and other resources.

Videos showing the screwless Assembly of the Casing and Base

3 x stl files

HDMI mount 1.stl

HDMI Mount 2.stl

HDMI Mount 3.stl

Download A1600 STL Files:

Caddy628b.stl

Case628b.stl

Base628b.stll

Joy628b.stl

FloppyCaddy628f

Two choices here of different ways to house the Pistorm16 HDMI connector.

Both can be fitted with 2.5mm x 12mm screws into the exsisting holes left by removing the RF Modulator but I recommend using brass press-in nuts for the basic version. For the Updated version 2 x 2mm x 12mm screws and brass press-in nuts for the assembley and 2 x 2.5mm x 12mm screws and Brass press-in nuts for securing to the motherboard.

Basic: Covers the interior part of the connector, fills the gap, gives some mechanical support to the connector in the event of cable being snagged or twisted. does not compensate for the Horizontal offset.

Updated: Covers the interior part of the connector, fills the gap, gives some mechanical support to the connector in the event of cable being snagged or twisted. compensates for the Horizontal offset with vertical lift. Great care must be taken to clean out the side slots that the PCB slides into as the fit MUST be a firm but free sliding fit it is VERY important to remove any stringing and test for a free sliding fit DO NOT force the PCB into position. I used emery boards and a pick to give a free moving fit. Check for track marks left by the solder that secures the socket shield and either, carefully, sand/scrape the base or reduce the solder height until the marks are no longer visible.

To fit the brass press-in nuts assemble both parts (with the pcb or suitable spacer pass the 2mm x 12mm screws through and start the threads by pushing the brass nuts carefully engaging the threads. Heat a brass nut with a soldering iron until you see it start to melt in. Remove the soldering iron then tighten the screw until it touches the PCB take care not to overtighten.

Basic PS16 HDMI Mount.stl

Updated PS16 HDMI Mount #1.stl

Updated PS16 HDMI Mount #2.stl

The next section is files NOT YET PROVED (Not yet proved means these files will not have been printed by me yet so take your own chances.

Additional Features in the Files below.

Base:

1 increased size of fixing pads for motherboard and added 4.2mm dia holes to take M3 threaded Brass inserts.

2 0.5mm skimed from top of front overhanging locator.

3 Removed surplus rib on PCMCIA side runner.

4 knock-out/cut-outs to blank off rear 9pin D outlets.

5 1xRear USB knock-out/cut-out.

6 Closed off RF Modulator apeture with HDMI sized outlet (Pistorm16).

Case:

1 Bevelled PCMCIA apeture for easy insertion of a Card.

2 Slimmed and styled rear locators.

3 Bevelled disk drive apeture

Joy port adapter plate:

1 Removed ribbon cable slots for those not wishing to use the rear joyports.

Download Parts with Additional Features:

Case V1b.stl

Joy V1b.stl

Base V1b.stl